I have a 3.5" lift, 11 pack of leaf springs in the rear and I also had a 1" aluminum block tucked in there.

I just moved the rear axle back 1" so the tires won't rub. (Uncut)

With the leaf springs, block, and 1" relocation, the driveshaft is simply too short. When the body goes up and the tires go down, the driveshaft comes undone.

I went back in and removed the 1" blocks but I liked the stance and want them back, So...

Are there any make/model years of vehicles that I can steal a longer direct fit shaft from?
Or,
Are there any vehicles with a longer shaft or slip shaft or ideally just a longer slip yolk for?
Pic is just for reference, it's not mine.
Thanks again!

I don't know of any, but am in the same boat you are. My plan is to have a driveshaft shop re-tube the it to make it a little longer.


So many shaft jokes....

a retube and balance is pretty cheap at most places. put the axle back and measure between the yokes. Give the shop that length and your drive shaft. they will make it right.

I got a front driveshaft out of a '94 explorer. Same u-joints and CV joint, just smaller diameter tubing. I don't remember the original length but it's probably close.

Explorer front drive is 30" compressed ,center to center on u-joints

Thanks Viper and J,
On a flat and level surface, I measured mine from the longest U joint Center end to end and it was 35 3/4 inches.

Jay, if yours is still handy, can you measure it the same way fully extended again for me please?
Thanks!!!

About 32.5" with about 1" of spline engagement.

Thanks!!!
Looks like I might need to go the shop route and have them lengthen mine! Dang it!

The Driveshaft shop here in Greeley wants over $260 to add a couple inches to my stock driveshaft! I've found a couple of gently used Tom Woods DS's for $250 but I don't want to spend that much 'cause I'm cheap.

I will measure tonight but I assume that my stock Rear slip yoke measures 7". JBG and maybe others, offer a 9" long slip yoke for $40 bucks. I will probably end up going this route BUT...

OK Boys, just thinking out of the box here and I'm sure that there is a good reason for not doing it this way but l just Gots-ta-aks!!!

***What if I put a second CV joint at the rear end side. So 1 CV at the transfer case on top (stock setup), and added another CV on the bottom end behind the stock slip yoke???

This would give me the added length I'm looking for(too easy-knock it off), AND it would effectively cut my pinion angle in half!!! Brilliant!!! Right!!!???

...OK, I give you permission to crush my hopes and dreams :)

HA! LOL!!!
http://drivetrainindustries.com/ Jamie quoted me $250-300!!! and they take it down to Denver to do it.

Jeremy (casadejohnson) mentioned he had a shop in Greeley that was good. You might ask him.

Yahtzee!!!!!!!!

Front Range Driveline they do wonderful work they did the front and rear on mine and I like them very much.
there off of oxford and Federal

I use front range for several sets including two 1350's from scratch. They are good but not the cheapest.

Call and talk to bill he will give you a quote over the phone.

Not close but Bill's in Englewood rebuilt the rear for BSD, I've yet to break it.

I stopped by bills recently and was impressed. They'll be doing my driveshaft when I get it lengthened.

I will keep him in mind, but for now I'm going Frankenstein.
Double, Double Cardan!

...to be continued...

I'm interested to see how this turns out for you. I would like something to help my rear angles...
But at $454, it's a big gamble!

I don't like the double idea for an axle without a wrap trap of sorts.

What JM said. I'm not seeing that a double cardan would affect wrap. Thoughts?

It won't cause axle wrap, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you had 10"s of lift and a low pinion axle. There's no need for anything more than a standard double cardan on a Bronco all the way to 5.5" lift. A double cardan is a weak point, no need to add another.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Im not saying it will cause axle wrap. But if you have any wrap I can see those CV's not playing nice. I just dont like the idea at all. Do it correct the first time.

Boyz, I'm not going to be doing Any Heavy wheeling! Maybe 62mph on the HW.

The only reason I even thought about this idea was to add a little length to my stock driveshaft. It does accomplish my original goal.
I didn't want to buy a used Tom Woods correct length for $250, and I'm certainly not going to fork over $400 plus!
I did however just purchase a used stock rear driveshaft ($25) with a CV joint on it that I am going to attach to my rear yoke.
4x$9.99 for new U-joints and voilà!
Mission accomplished. I lengthened my driveshaft, I decreased my pinion angle, and I didn't break the bank!
$65 bucks OTD!

In my situation, I've got some lift, with a clocked-flat Atlas, which decreases the length of shaft while increasing it's angle. I'm not trying to call anyone out, but thinking thru the physics of this, I don't see how this would be any worse than a standard driveshaft.

I certainly don't like the price, but i could be a viable solution.

Wasn't RCV working on bringing driveshafts to market?

I've been stretching lately, trying to be more flexible.

See, look... I'm almost Double Jointed