So it begins. I will be replacing my stock 3spd with a freshly rebuilt and clean ZF5 that I have had siting in my garage all year. I will also be freshening up hopefully soon a NP205 that I bought off Kinder. The plan is to twin stick it as well.

Today was demo day. Was able to take the 3spd and D20 out all still attached to the crossmember brace.





I knew the ZF was bigger but man that 3spd looks small once it is out.

Was able to muscle the ZF onto the transmission Jack and get it under the Bronco. I'm about an inch or so from getting it seated (any tips of wisdom? seems like the teeth need to line up?).

If anyone is around Friday or Saturday to help me get it the last inch, I'd appreciate a hand. Once I get fully seated, I can start the design and fab of the support. I'd also like to get the tunnel cutouts figured out.

Two things need to happen to get the two to mate:


1) The transmission must be square to the engine or they will not slide together. Make sure the gap between the engine and trans is roughly equal all the way around. Look at the two dowel pins and make sure you are close to lined up.

2) Put the transmission in 4 or 5 gear. This will allow you to turn the input shaft via the output shaft, allowing you to line up the input splines. You may need to apply forward pressure on the trans as you rotate the input until you feel it "key-in", then you typically just need to wiggle the trans the rest of the way.

Yep, exactly as digger said. I can probably swing by on my way to the junkyard Friday if you haven't gotten it together by then. Shoot me your address Thursday afternoon if you need my help on Friday.

Thanks for the notes guys. I had to pull the shifter to get it closer to the engine so I'll have to put that back on in order to put it in 4th or 5th gear.

Crawler, I've got to do the family thing for Thanksgiving tomorrow so won't have any time to try on my own. If you're willing to swing by, I'd love the assistance! PM on the way.

I could help later this weekend. I'm on parenting duty all day Friday.

Can do. Just let me know what works. Depending on timing I should be able to brings your arms as well.

I did the zf5 thing...used a bc Broncos x-member and a 205 with a hacked together top mount frame rail t-case support. The bc Broncos xmember is not perfect but works. Feel free to give me a call if you want to come take a look or have questions. 3-521. 5082

Oh yeah...I had to do a 2 hockey puck body lift to fit it in mine

Here is the tunnel I made

I've built my own mount after crushing the BC x-member. I can't get to my pics right now but I have posted them around here somewhere. It doubles as a skid plate mount as well.

I used tubing and made plates on both sides that mounted to the frame which I also plated with 1/4" on either side and mounted bolts through the frame to hold it together. Justin helped me bend the tubing came out really nice.

I will send over a link to the parts I used for the Trans mount that includes the bushing.

Chris, I'm probably going to copy your setup. I really liked the design with the poly bushing.

Thanks to CrawlerCreations (Jason) - we were able to get the ZF mated to the block. Cut out the tunnel to fit the shifter. We tried to fit the NP205 in, but it was too tight of a fit. Looks like I would have to notch the frame in order to clock it correctly. I think I might just bite the bullet and get the D20 adapter and use my D20.

Next step is to figure out the Transmission X member mount. Chris, if you could shoot me the parts you used, that'd be great.

Your making more progress than us

Keep it rockin'

You shouldn't need to notch the frame, Brianut didn't.

My focus at this point has been on the transfer case. I tore down my Dana 20 T shift so I could remove the shift rail pills in preparation for the Twin Stick. After looking at replacing gaskets and seals, I was only $75 away from a full rebuild (and Phil made it make sense). Deluxe rebuild kit ordered from WH.

In the meantime, I cleaned up the case and painted it.

Got the master cylinder fit utilizing the bolt from the brake booster bracket. Had to cut the hole out a little bit for the cylinder pushrod but otherwise fits great.

Next I need to fab up the connection to the pedal assembly. My plan is to attach a tab like it currently has and then use some sort of bolt or pin with a cotter pin.

Anyone have suggestions on how best to measure the pushrod throw so I can attach it at the correct point on the pedal?







Pushrod for master cylinder.

I'm going to do the same thing soon. I used the same location for my m/c. This article has some good info on hydraulic clutch installs. Its important to have a pedal stop to prevent damage to the slave cylinder. Check out page 5 & 6. I need to reread everything again before I jump back into this part of my project.

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/C ... n_Tips.pdf