I have been wanting to install a 2" receiver through my stock bumper for a slim line look.

I thought I had it all figured out and even bought materials but I can't figure out how to do it without cutting the frame or welding the hitch frame work to the frame.

Planning to use 2" x 4" tubing for horns that would slide into frame and be bolted in place using holes for original bumper. That's not really the problem.

I was planning to use more of the 2"x4" tubing to go between the stubs / horns I just mentioned. Problem is there isn't enough room to do it without cutting the inside wall of the frame (see pic).

Any ideas welcome.

image.jpg

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I thought about putting the 2x4 horns in the frame and then running 2x2 tubing as the crossmember.

Notches!



I think it looks good, I'm planning to do the same to my trailer bumper.

What are you planning to pull with this hitch?

While notching or welding might not appeal to you, one, the other, or both might be necessary based on forecasted weight.

Maybe you could template that inside design, lay it across the end of the cross piece, grind down, and then weld in. In other words notch your hitch to match the frame.

Just did a little reading regarding shear strength of grade 8 hardware. If I read stuff correctly bolting everything to the frame you'd be good up to like 17k.

https://nucor-fastener.com/Files/PDFs/T ... rength.pdf

But I'm not a gym teacher so I could be wrong.

I should have been more clear, I'd notch the 2x4 not the frame, top and bottom so it would slip inside the frame horns. I'd upload a pic of my napkin drawing but I'm without a phone data connection at the moment.

I'd be inclined to bend up some 1/4" into 2 U shaped channels that fit between and around the frame rails. Weld the 2x4 between them and have a bolt top and bottom through the frame. If you decide to go this route I can bend the U's for you in my brake.

I take it that you don't like the idea of having your bumper moved back two inches so that no frame cutting or tube notching is needed? I like your idea but I HATE towing with the Bronco so I didn't put my hitch back on when I went to the 23 gallon tank. Towing was OK when I was rollin on 31's but not so much fun with 35's. When I got my 74 it even had a trailer brake controller on it! I flat towed a car with the Bronco from Colorado to California when I was about 18 or 19. That cured me of all of my short wheel base towing desires.

My idea is to make a template of the opening you have in your frame. Cut that from 1/4" plate, and use it as a spacer between the inserts and the crossbar. I'd also make sure your inserts went into the frame a good 8"+, even if it means trimming them. I'd be very concerned with pulling the bolts thru the frame horns in a recovery situation. You might also consider putting a bolt/nut further back to help spread out the forces. You could "french" the inserts into the crossbar as much as the frame horns will allow for more welding surface and still end up with a smooth "rear end". (oh boy, sorry about that)

Maybe consider laying the crossbar horizontally and flush with the top of the frame. That would help with departure angle and give it more strength when pulling laterally. Attaching to the inserts is a bit of a struggle tho.

Here was my first bumper building experience:




This is how far my current bumper slides into the frame:


Truthfully, I didn't want to modify my frame either, but once I did, I've never regretted it.

Here's a link to some gym teachers fab:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1030&p=53748&hilit=Hitch#p53748