When swapping axles, radius arms and front suspension mounting points at the same time, what's the best way to keep the axles in alignment? I'm thinking that doing it in stages is the right way to go (switch out front axle, align off stock radius arms, install long arms, then install new front coil mounts), but wasn't sure if there is a method that will work better.

I set the long arm brackets based off measurements from the stock brackets. Then fine tuned the front axle alignment by measuring from the ball joint grease zirc to a consistent point on each side of the frame. I think I measured to several points on each side to be sure.

Then I'd use a plumb Bob to align the upper coil mounts and to center the axle under the truck.

Are you pushing the axle forward?

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Thinking about it pretty seriously. Not a major push, just an inch or two.

Im doing coilovers now so im going to measure off a static object like a body mount. i would invest in a digital angle finder and measure all the angles of a stock coil bucket. make sure the truck is sitting level. cut off old ones tack on new towers find a center point of the tower and run a plumb bob down you can get a measurement of your track bar as well . center axle put on track bar to adjust center.. makeep sure you cut lower arms when axle is at ride height as the axle moves in a arch and if its too low you arms will push the axle forward at ride height.... tack together use cherry picker to flex put tire on obey side at a time .. i would disconnect one upper link to release the normal bind on the radius arm..

I did as Chad described. Fore & Aft measurements, then cross measurements (drivers side frame point to passenger side zirk) to make sure it was square. Zirks are nice because they hook onto the tape measure no problem. No one's ever told me she crab crawls so I must have got it close.

Go for the maximum you think you can get by with. You won't be sorry.

Well, sky's the limit as they say. But I went 2" forward without any cross member issues and a little fender trimming. Depends on your steering and track bar config. Knowing I wanted to do this at some point, I pushed my track bar bracket forward an inch or so after it did the can-opener mod to my frame. My frame track bar bracket clears my non-drop pitman arm by about 1/4".

I'm seriously considering using this bracket for the track bar:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... N-OFF.html

I figure it'll move the mounting point on the axle back some, and will mount the track bar in double shear which is a big plus. Should give me the clearance to move the axle forward while keeping the suspension mounting points in mostly the same place. I'm open to moving the mount on the frame side if needed. Some of it will depend on how the steering linkage mounts up. Trei used the same one, and I think he was pretty happy with how it came out.

I'd support the front frame at ride height, and release the radius arms at the frame mounts and push it forward and see what binds. You will have to remove shocks too, and maybe springs, but that will give you a good idea what you can get away with. You might not need a new track bar bracket.

The track bar bracket on the '77 F-150 axle is integrated with front C, which is welded on. I'll know more once I start getting it mocked up, but I'm not sure that the Battlement bracket will work with that C still in place. I'm also trying to decide how comfortable I am with just running the C welded on without the radius arm bolted around it. I'm thinking it's fine, but I'm a lousy materials engineer. The welded contact area probably isn't that different than stock, and I can't imagine the C isn't super-beefy.

Since your running Clint's setup, cut off the old welded on cast c's, there's no need for them, and if you gouge the tube a little in the process just grind the slag out and weld it up, then smooth it, you'll want the axle tubes polished clean and smooth with a flap wheel for the cleanest surface you can get before welding on the new brackets, those axle tubes are 1/2" thick, so you'll have to mess up pretty bad with a torch or plasma before you blow through, I'd recommend a new lower track bar bracket for sure

I put a big gusset on mine down to the axle. So there is no way they can fold over. The gusset is angled down so it will never fill with dirt.

Picture...picture...ah yes here it is:

Wicked, thanks to both of you. I'm also contemplating a low-key truss, as much to reinforce the brackets as anything. I'll depend on clearances. JD what brackets are those?

Battlements, but can be had from a lot of suppliers.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Fla ... _1184.html