I have a Hobart handler 140. I love it.

It can weld up to 1/4" thick material with no issues. I am stretching my frame and tub. Stretching the frame includes welding the heavy 3/16" thick frame, 1/8" plate and 3/16 steel tube. That is 1/2" overall. By doing some beveling, pre heating and multiple passes, it is easy to be sure you are penetrating the full thickness of all the steel. I am also rosette (puddle) welding the frame and through bolting everything. This by far is the heaviest fabrication you would ever be doing on a bronco project. Roll cages are generally 1/8" thick, bumpers are generally 3/16 - 1/4" thick.

That said, if I had more power to my garage, I would have gone with a heavier welder. Just because you get a better duty cycle and more options... The cost to add a 20A circuit to my garage would cut deeply into my shallow project fund right now so I am staying with the smaller welder.

Greg - I think the heaviest welding one might do is some heavy DOM suspension links, but that is fairly rare, so most of the time, a 110v machine will work. That's why I own one and not have 220v in the garage also made me hold off on a larger machine.

Ok thanks. It sounds like almost everyone has plenty of what they need in the 110V machines. I don't anticipate doing much more than sheet metal work and some occasional roll bar and frame work so I am thinking the 140 it is and I can spend money on other much needed attention areas! Thanks everyone for weighing in.

Finally got all of the rusty screws and bolts loose and I now have an official project in my garage. Next up, replace and patch rusty sheet metal.

Nice! Those bolts connecting the grill and fender are usually a bitch. How does the passenger side look?

The impact wrench took em right out. The passenger side so far doesn't look too bad but I haven't wire wheeled it to make sure yet.

Got a little more rust removed this weekend. Guessing the next step is going to be a little bit tedious with measurements and cutting....

Was able to get the new door post, kicker panel, and driver floor all measured and screwed in. Ended up having to jack the windshield/dash up about a 1/2 inch in order to get the door to align correctly but was able to get that all done at lunch today. Definitely excited to have it all in and ready for some

I think this was by far the most difficult task I had on my list so far to get done so once this is all done, I can move on to the other projects on my list, all of which I have the parts for already (Power Steering, Front Roll Cage, 23 gallon gas tank). Then I can start thinking re-finishing work on the interior and ultimately paint!!

Nothing beats fresh sheet metal, nice.

Looks great, you're moving along!

So, when can I drop mine off?

Looking good. All of you guys knocking out body panel replacement keep making me feel like a heel for selling my '66.

I got almost ALL of the metal patch work done today. I am just about done with all of the welding I need to do and am getting close to moving forward with the rebuild. This is where I need some opinions and advice.

I plan to treat the interior with a herculiner type product, put in new seats, replace the wiring, install power steering, paint the dash and the exterior the same color, paint the engine bay and inner fenders. The tub has a lot of PO holes in it, so my first plan was to buy the seats and figure out where the mounts go so that I can patch all extra holes. I also plan to strip/sand all surface rust to prep it for liner and paint.

BUT, after that I am not sure what makes sense to do in what order. With what I am trying to accomplish, I would love advice as to what I should do in what order.

THANKS!!

-Skip

Seats should be able to go in the threaded factory holes if you buy something with correct brackets. What all is left on the list?

Duh, not sure how that didn't register. I'd:

1. patch all extra holes
2. strip/sand all surface rust to prep it for liner and paint
3. treat the interior with a herculiner type product and paint the engine bay and inner fenders-order doesn't matter, could potentially be done with the same product
4. paint the dash and the exterior the same color
5. install firewall insulation and floor insulation, if desired
6. replace the wiring
7. install power steering
8. buy the seats and figure out where the mounts go-this could really go anywhere, but you don't have a ton of space to store them while you're doing the rest. You can look at any Bronco with stock seat mounts to figure out where they need to go. The seat mounts and seat belt holes are pretty much the only ones that a bolt can thread into.

Thanks guys. Justin.. the reason I thought I would buy the seats is so that I could figure out where the holes go. The Bronco had aftermarket seats in it and there are more holes in it than necessary. I can always keep the new seats in the spare bedroom until they are truly ready for final install.

I dunno. You should make a bracket for them and use them in your living room.

Sprayed the engine bay, inner fenders, wheel wells, underside of the hood, and tub with Raptor Liner today. It is amazing how pretty the thing looks now. Can't even see all of my "progression" of learning how to weld! Next step is to make rock skis and then figure out paint. I also purchased the seats... Besttop Trailmax II Pro Recliner front seats (http://www.4wheelparts.com/Interior-Par ... ST39461-15) And the rear fold and tumble to match (http://www.4wheelparts.com/Interior-Par ... ST39435-15)

More Pics

A few more pics. We also did my Dad's truck bed. Turned out great. I used microbeads in mine and it definitely added more texture.

That looks great, nicely done!

Looks really nice, awesome progress!

Looks great. What would you estimate the cost at?

To answer the liner question. I Have bought two complete sets of Raptor Liner plus the gun, the microbeads, and a couple cans of primer. Through Amazon.com, I have spent a total of around $275 shipped on everything. This covered the tub, engine bay and inner fender area, underside of hood, wheel wells, and I intend to touch up a couple areas as well as spray the inside of my hard top with it as well. I expect I will still have a minumum of 2 of the 4 bottles left for touch-ups down the road.

As for Hockedad's sage advice... I am with you! I had NO intention in answering the cost question if it meant totalling the entire build. I have gotten that question a lot from "friends/Bronco outsiders." I have a ballpark figure in my head that I have no idea how close I am to that actual number. I have also spent probably just as much if not more money (I think it has been more) on tools like a Lincoln 140, 90 gallon air compressor, tank of welding gas, gammit of pnematic tools, heavy jack, just to name the obvious ones. And at the end of the day--- I DON'T CARE! I have had fun doing it and I just tell myself I am collecting tools and knowledge so the next one will be cheaper to do and probably come out better!

Party on!

Hit the swap meet this morning and picked up a steering column and lower steering shaft to put me very close to being ready to make the transition to power steering.

I skipped breakfast to get home to start working on the rocker skis. A little challenging to do it all by myself but I think I score at least an 8 for creativity in getting er done. Getting very close to having it ready for paint now. Just need to cut the fenders for the new Gorilla Flares and then start sanding pieces.

That looks great, nicely done! Are you happy with the 2x5?