You got your ECU at a chain store correct? I have heard that the chances of them being bad are pretty high.

Here is what alldata says:

Code 15-
1. key off
2. disconnect ECU
3. measure voltage between pin#1 & pin#40 or #60
4. wiggle/move harness & watch voltage
5. if voltage is below 10.5 fix voltage problem or if voltage is ok replace ECU.

The web site says to install a "break out box" to test between pins. I assume this isn't necessary, is there a good way to test voltage between pins? Can't I just use a regular multimeter probe?

Code 96- this is interesting. If the engine starts, it indicates either a left HEGO short to power, or a faulty processor.
1. disconnect L HEGO
2. @ sensor pigtail check ohms across HEGO signal pin & key power
3. if resistance is under 10,000 replace HEGO. (internal HEGO short)

4 if over 10,000
5. key off- disconnect ECU & L HEGO sensor
6. turn key on
7. @ HEGO pigtail on vehicle harness check voltage from HEGO signal pin to chassis ground
8. if voltage is less than 2.0 replace ECU, if voltage is over 2.0 find short to power & repair

So I have 2 chances for a bad ECU and 1 chance Zoso was right & I damaged a HEGO sensor. Taking all bets.

I hope I am wrong man, but it's not looking good! However, you have a warranty right?

Yes I do have a warranty, 1 year. So it will go back if the tests show a bad ecu. No problem.

Did some detail work today.

I cleaned my IAB w/throttle body cleaner, hoping to help my hanging idle, but it runs the same. I'll play with my TPS next. I've got extra IAB & TPS, but they both have different pig tails than the RJM harness, so I'll swap them after everything else is checked.

I checked the 15 code, and I have good power from the #1 pin. So I'll warranty the ECU

I also followed up on the 96 code, and both HEGO sensors show an open circuit. Not a short to power, but the opposite. Looks like the HEGOs should test above 10,000 ohms, but I show no continuity & no ohm reading no matter where I set my DMM. So are both my HEGO's shot?

I cut my hood open to clear the t/b, moved my starter solinoid lower to clear my air filter, changed the oil, re-checked the timing, and custom bent & reinstalled my hood prop rod to clear the radiator mounts I moved to clear the clutch fan.

Monday I'll pull the ECU & my alternator & send them back for warranty.

I think the O2's are ok. Just swap out the ECU and see what happens.

That was my plan. Swap the ECU and HOPE the O2 sensors are ok.

Advance Auto is sending a call tag, so no shipping charges, that is not bad.

I pulled out my alternator & v-belt tonight & drove the truck home. I've parked it and will pull the ECU tomorrow at lunch. All I can do is send them back and wait now.

I played with the TPS tonight (set closed throttle voltage @ .93), but got the same hanging throttle. I should have kept the meter on the TPS and cycled the throttle body, but I forgot. I'll see how things act with a good (fingers crossed) computer. I'm going to check the alldata website too and see what it recommends.

So I've got a week or two off from working on the Bronco. Time to get back to the house projects, and snowboarding.

It took 5 phone calls & way over 1 hour on the phone to get my computer warranty started.

1st call, last night - 5 minutes, max:
I was told that a call tag would be issued, but that department was closed, and please call back tomorrow. Ok, that is inconvenient, why is that department closed? They email you a UPS call tag. Last time I checked the interweb is on all night.

2nd call, today at lunch - 15 minutes:
After being put on hold several times, I am told, the ONLY way to do a warranty is by bringing the part to an Advance Auto store, myself. I explain that I live over 3.5 hours (one way) from the nearest Advance, and I was shipped the parts. That doesn't change things. Can I ship it to a friend and have them return it? No, that will void your warranty, the warranty is only for the original purchaser. Really? I'm literally stunned, and hang up. I should have asked for the guy's name, but was probably too surprised to think straight.

3rd call- 10 min:
I call an Advance store in Denver, explain what I've been told & ask if I can ship it to him, and let him process the warranty, like I walked in the store. He is confused why I've been told what I've been told. He knows of lots of call tags sent for warranty returns. Suggests I call back & get someone different.

4th call, still on lunch 10 minutes:
I skip the warranty department, and select "all other questions". I tell this guy my situation, and he issues a call tag, immediately. He explains they don't require me to return items to the store, and obviously wouldn't expect an online customer to be able to return to a store. He can only process the warranty return, and I have to call back, and reorder a new ECU. I also have to explain to the person taking the order that this is a warranty replacement & to waive the core charge, and also apply the same discount I received on my original order. Seems straight forward, but one question, why couldn't one person process the return & the order? WTF.

5th call, at work:
It took well over 45 minutes to get the part ordered & priced correctly. The woman taking the order acted like this was all new to her, and had to get multiple approvals from her manager. I was put on hold for 5 to 10 minutes at least, 3 times. The first time everything was figured out my charges were for over $112.00. The correct amount was around $90.00. All this, despite the fact they had my original order number & invoice that clearly showed what I paid for the part.

What a disaster. After all that, I really doubt my credit will be correct. It was like this was the first part they ever had to warranty.

The most aggravating part? Each time I called their 800 number, the automated recording tells me about how their "best part" is their service.

don't you love those................"your call is really important to us, please hold and we will be with you as soon as we can"

if it is so damn important, why don't you hire some good old fashioned peeps to talk to me ?

By the end, I felt like stomping around like Yosemite Sam.

Honestly, I'd have taken a foreigner who knew what they were doing over the stupid Americans I talked to today. Explains a lot about what we are going through politically and economically.

Just finished filling out a customer satisfaction survey from Advance Auto. I'm glad I was randomly selected to respond.

AAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWW I hate returning parts!

Well, I'm officially stumped.

I just plugged in my 2nd ECU and it is giving me the same batch of codes. I have no idea where to go from here.

EDIT: I actually have 2 new codes 21 & 24. Both ECUs are reading this. I don't have an alternator installed & I only ran the truck for about 30 seconds. But voltage is above 11.5, not quite 12.

Low voltage can cause some strange stuff in the ECM.

Hoping it is just that. Maybe I went through all that crap w/Advance for nothing, as the alternator was bad when the EFI install was finished. I did get the ECU w/ no core, and at 15% off, so I may just keep it for a rainy day. I figure after my 351 swap, I'll have an injected 302 sitting around just begging to be put in something like this:
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/tec ... index.html

Yep I'd wait to do anything until you are sure the alternator is good before trying to continue. I know on my car if my battery voltage gets low it leans out the AFR.

Still no alternator, kinda getting pissed. He says it tested good but hasn't taken it apart. If I knew it would take this long I would have probably just bit the bullet & bought a new one. Its still going to take 2+ weeks to get it back, wish I hadn't read a bunch of CB posts that recommended RRRRAAAAAYYYYY2, I wouldn't be sitting here waiting on this.

I was thinking of putting my dogs in the Bronco and taking them for a long walk. I've charged up my battery but, I'm not sure I should drive the truck 30 miles without an alternator. I know the battery would handle it, I drove it that much, and more before I took the alt out & sent it back. Whadddya think?

Bein efi I wouldn't do it. You run the chance of running lean if the voltage drops too low.

Damn it, that is not what my dogs wanted to hear. I'm going to tell them its your fault they can't go to the lake.

Thanks.

Maybe RRRRAAAAAYYYY got his name from people hollering at him?? IDK??

Hope you get it back and problem is fixed!

I've only read good things about him, and if you Google SVA Performance products, he has a good rep on other forums. He's also been very helpful when I've called. Its just the shipping time back/forth to Ontario and some down time since it got to his shop that is killing me. Live and learn. Sometimes you don't need high performance, regular performance does just fine for most EB needs.

Gunni - what is the latest and geatest ...............any progress ?

Nothing new, waiting on the return of my alternator. I sent a nice, firmly worded email requesting my alt be returned ASAP. I did charge my battery last weekend & started the truck. That is about it.

When I get my alternator, or just give up and buy a new one, I'll figure why it wasn't charging. If my alt was good, then I'm betting the single, large diameter v-belt pulley was the culprit. I just wonder if the belt was slipping due to the hi-amp (200) alternator, but the belt never squeeled, burned, dusted, or showed any sign of slipping. I have a double v-belt pulley I'll install, now with the 69 GTO upper rad hose, there is plenty of room. Hopefully, with a working alt, I can clear my codes and that issue will be solved. I'm just grabbing at straws right now, with no way to test it my mind is chasing its tail.

Today was my last day at the body shop, I get a 3 day weekend (with fresh snow!) and then my 3rd career starts Monday. Five days of work, next week, then off to Alaska. So there won't be anything done till I get back mid-March.

Reinstalled my alternator, and its working pretty good. I'm waiting on a double v-belt pulley from RJM, and that should take care of the little bit of belt slippage I'm having.

But I've still got the 15 code & 96 code (and EGR codes that I can ignore). I get the same codes with both ECUs I have, so I have trouble blaming a bad ECU. It would be very strange to get the same exact codes, even if both ECUs were bad. Both are Cardone remans from Advance Auto. I've tried to clear the codes by pulling the ground to self test plug at nearly every possible time in the code process. Right after turning on the key, right after the relays click, right after the real fast flashing light, and right after the codes start.

I saved the pages from alldatapro regarding these codes and they say

For 15 code, check the voltage at wire 1/ground at 60 & 40, wiggle wire harness around. I've tried that and I never see a voltage fluctuation. I also checked the fuse on the RJM harness that connects the battery to the #1 wire @ the relay harness. I've also swapped the relay (shouldn't matter - the #1 wire is crimped directly to the battery wire). No improvements.

For 96 code, if the motor starts (it does & runs well) it is a problem with the left HEGO. I haven't gotten under the truck yet, but back in January the HEGO showed an open circuit between the "key" wire & the HEGO signal pin. I didn't test the right HEGO, because it is such a bitch to get to, but I'll try tonight. Here are the pages from the web site the dealership uses for diagnostics. If someone could test their HEGO I'd appreciate it. I expect that I should get an ohm reading, not an open circuit. But the diagnostics call for an ohm reading over 10,000 and an open circuit IS over 10,000. So I don't know. I think I checked the 2nd step pictured below, back in January, but honestly can't remember. Just an FYI, I ran my truck for a few weeks with the HEGOs installed in the exhaust but without the EFI installed, so maybe, I ruined them????? IDK. I did swap around all the relays to see if I had a bad one, but everything stayed the same.

I'll go retest the HEGO(s). I'm also going to try testing/setting the TPS because I've still got a hanging idle, but it seems better with a good alternator.
code 96 step 2.gif
code 96 step 3.gif

I can't see how code 96 is HEGO related. FPM and HEGO don't use the same relay with the RJM harness.

To clear codes you need to pull ground before the codes begin to flash.

15 has to be a constant power wiring/harness problem.

I don't know how/why either, just relaying what the diagnostic steps were. Here is the first page that I followed to get to the HEGO diagnostic pages. I guess I'll concentrate on the possibility of a bad connection or something else in the power leads, since both the codes seem related to bad power sources:

KOEO code 96:
step 1
code 96 step 1.gif

following the diagnostic flow chart, I went to J35 & J36(shown in the post above). Maybe the fault to the fuel pump is so minor the truck is running despite throwing the code. I have both the low pressure pump & high pressure pump wired into the fuel pump/inertia switched circuit.

From what I understand, the series of rapid flashing CEL is the codes flashing to be read by a scanner. So I need to be pulling the ground before the rapid flashing starts. I've done that numerous times, so I'm sure there is a problem.

Since both the 15 and 96 codes indicate lost power, I'll keep looking at grounds and power leads on my harness.

I played a bit with setting the idle with out the IAB hooked up. Without the IAB, the idle returned to base quickly, but as soon as I hooked the IAB back up, the idle was very slow to return. I have another IAB, from an Explorer motor, so I'll wire it in and try it. The IAB I'm using was from my F250 motor, that was not in as good a shape as my Explorer motor. I used it because the pigtail matched the RJM harness.

Here are the diagnostic pages I saved from the CM 96 code (I have that too, if I remember right)





I guess I'll ignore the HEGO part, and look into the loss of power/open circuit/bad relay ideas.