Got my transfer case swapped out. So far it seems to be behaving itself. Also got my door seals installed.

My Bronco came with door inserts and no doors. Stupid me sold the Inserts and bought real doors.

I fought the doors all dang weekend - new outside Driver Side handle wouldn't pop the latch. Spent hours and it still does not work. Plus the money for new felt, tracks, handles, window cranks, mirrors, etc. Total PITA. None of the Scott Drake items came with instructions. Got stuck on the latches so nothing else got done - felt, tracks, mirrors, wing windows, door covers, buckets, arm rests, etc. Now I need to order new latches and wait for them to finish the doors.

I do not think I have ever sworn more in my life. A horrible weekend with very little getting done. Most frustrating weekend of my Bronco build.

You may want to pull the button/lever assembly/plunger off your old handles & put them on the new handles. IT seems to be a running theme, the new button assy sucks. I had the same problems w/both new door handles. I put the old button on the new handles & it helped. USE HEAT TO REMOVE THE RETAINER SCREW FROM THE HANDLES, OR IT WILL BREAK THE HEAD OFF. It took me longer to drill & tap the new handle, than the rest of the job did.

I also had to straighten/rebend the latch rods. Make sure the rods "naturally" sit very close to the place they belong on the latch or button. Also make sure they are pushing in the same direction of the latch action. Mine were so out-of-whack, you had to really push/pull them into the holes in the handle & latch, and when the button was pushed the rod was pushing "into" the latch lever, not down with the lever action. Don't know how well that go my point across.

I assume the doors opened ok before & there is no tension on the striker. If the striker is too high, low, or far in, it will put extra tension on the door, making it hard to open (from inside or outside). The door should not ride up or down on the striker as it closes & latches. Of course you want your doors sealed, but you don't want it so tight the latch gets tight. You probably are already adjusted right, I just needed to say that.

Chad

Thanks for the advice Gunni - I am open to trying anything lol.

I ordered new latches and clips so I truely have all new stuff and never have to deal with this again. I will definitely try the old handle plunger if I have any further issues. I never installed the doors so not sure how much adjustment they will take and if they will even work.

Chad,plan on spending some time on your doors.Put the weather strip on first if only temporaraly.Take your time .Lots of adjustment in the hinges to work with.You may need to put shims behind the door post hinges to center it in the opening.This can also move the door up or down in the back of the door.If you decide you want to take your doors off in the future drill a 1/4" hole in each hinge all the way through the door post and backing plates once you get them set and then it's easy to align them over and over using alignment pins.If you need any more advice or help let me know.JGZ
P.S. got lots of door guts

It took a bunch of shims to get mine to close and line up correctly. If you have a body lift or even new mounts, that can affect the alignment also. I'd say, if you plan to take them off, drop on the removable hinges from Drake...they are sweet.

Chad,

First of all remember what it is that I do for a living, installing doors and windows. I have installed literally thousands of them, I understand how to shim here to adjust it there.

When the boys decided to remove the doors a few weeks ago, it took 4 hours for us to get them back and shimed to nearly perfect. The passenger door was a little tight (at least I thought it was a "little" tight), well on Friday Drew slammed that door shut and the glass shattered (fortunatly I am the guy for that as well) so just take your time. Lots and lots of it. And once you get them right, just right. Give them a few weeks of driving to be shure, then go ahead and use that alignment pin.

These doors are more difficult than the doors on the Mustang to get right.

In the meantime, I will be removing the glass form the drivers side and ordering new glass for both doors and vent windows..... <<<<sigh>>>>

Somedays it is chicken, somedays its feathers.

Called Wildhorses today about my brake line issue. Got their answering machine at 5:00PM PST (30 minutes before they close). Wrote $h1++y email to sale department.

Pushed it outside so I could earn a living. Maybe get more done next weekend. the Bigger tars on da rear sure make it stand better.


My Camera has two lenses one of them is scuffed up a bit

Finished my sunroof install. Looks great! Now I need to finish up the headliner and get it back in.

Redid the entire brake system on Jonah's. Darn kid has been driving with minimal brakes for over a month. Power Booster was out. Spent a lot of time and money chasing the problem, but it all needed it anyway. Now it stops like a new car!!

Carb rebuild today over lunch. Went fairly smooth with the exception of a snapped off screw.

I added Herculiner in my interior. Not sure I will Carpet now - it is too nice

Found a replacement Motorcraft 2100 Choke Pull-off online and replaced the original one. That was the only part that really needed replacing during my carb rebuild and it wasn't in the kit.

Does anyone know what the choke pull-off is actually used for? Looking at the actuator arm, I can't see it actuating in normal usage.

I rolled mine on and it could not have been easier. I am surprised how thick the material is but still brushed and rolled with ease. No high and low spots - very uniform texture and coverage. I chose this product over the professional applied (RhinoLiner, etc.) mainly to price, reviews, ease, glossy finish, rubbery, DIY, etc. It was still wet/tacky this morning so it will take more time to dry that the instructions stated. I wish it was less textured but that is the very reason it wears so well - so I guess I can't have it both ways :).

Thanks for the advise on the UV protectant - I will order some.

Yeah, rolling it goes on a little thicker, but rougher. When I sprayed mine, I had to thin it down to a 75/25 mix with Xylene so it would go through the gun. Spraying it, it is about half the texture roughness than rolling it. Still nice stuff. I went with it for your reasons too.

Custom tinted vent windows....nice!! Your boys are lucky:) I still need to get in there and replace the roller bushings for the door windows....I'm hoping that won't take quite as long as your windows removal though!

Spent a quality afternoon with the Bronco.

Replaced the heater hoses and routed them away from rub points.
Replaced needles, jets and installed offroad seats in the E Brock carb.
Adjusted floats on carb.
Loose cable on the starter solenoid, lead to snapped off pos side stud.
Replaced solenoid, replaced pos battery cable. put new connectors on the wires attaching to the solenoid.
Replaced cracked ballast resistor.
Re routed the spark plug wires.
Drilled holes for and put on batter hold down clamp.
Replaced 3 speed shifter bushings.
Changed oil and filter.

Have some tuning on the carb to do tomorrow.


Brett

Pulled the hard top(pretty hard by yourself with no hoist!) and mostly installed some upper quarter panel armor. Need a few more bolts and some paint and they will be ready!