www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

I have a dana 20 and a c 4 auto transmission. Pulled the plug on the transfer case lots of metal shavings.....so know that it's time to get it rebuilt. Is this going to cause issues with the tranny? Any advise on how to get it out? I've done a manual trans but not an automatic.

You can pull the transfer without affecting the C4. 6 bolts on the intermediate housing hold the two together.

How long has the C4 been in there?

akaFrankCastle wrote:You can pull the transfer without affecting the C4. 6 bolts on the intermediate housing hold the two together.

How long has the C4 been in there?

I have no clue it was in it when I bought it. I've put maybe 2000 miles since I bought it.

I recommend leaving the adapter on the trans. That way you won't need a gasket and the tcase is easier to lift.

It's doable by yourself. Done mine twice in the last few months. would be a lot easier if I had a body lift.

Cutting an access panel in the transmission tunnel helps a ton, too.

I keep advocating that everyone make the top section of the tunnel removable, I'll bring the cutting tools!

kinder wrote:I keep advocating that everyone make the top section of the tunnel removable, I'll bring the cutting tools!

I don't have to guts to cut on my floor. Would also probably cry
I'll just have to get it out from the bottom.

Ford finally realized their mistake in 1978, removable covers ever since.

Cross member support brackets have four 9/16" bolts holding them on to the frame.

The crossmember itself is held to these brackets by two 3/4" nuts and bolts. The top of the 3/4" bolt can usually be accessed with a box wrench from the outside of the frame rail, unless there is an auxiliary fuel tank installed.

Pull the two 3/4" bolts and nuts from the crossmember. Support the transfer case from underneath with a floor jack with a block of wood on top. Loosen and remove the 8 bolts holding the crossmember supports to the frame. Reattach the crossmember supports to the frame using the two top holes in the support and the two lower holes in the frame. Then lower the floor jack and allow the crossmember to rest on the crossmember supports. That will by you an inch or so of wiggle room to get to hard to reach bolts.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Cross member support brackets have four 9/16" bolts holding them on to the frame.

The crossmember itself is held to these brackets by two 3/4" nuts and bolts. The top of the 3/4" bolt can usually be accessed with a box wrench from the outside of the frame rail, unless there is an auxiliary fuel tank installed.

Pull the two 3/4" bolts and nuts from the crossmember. Support the transfer case from underneath with a floor jack with a block of wood on top. Loosen and remove the 8 bolts holding the crossmember supports to the frame. Reattach the crossmember supports to the frame using the two top holes in the support and the two lower holes in the frame. Then lower the floor jack and allow the crossmember to rest on the crossmember supports. That will by you an inch or so of wiggle room to get to hard to reach bolts.

Done this once or twice, eh?

I think I'm going to try to attack it this weekend depending on work.
might come out with a few battle scars but that's OK
It's intimidating due to the fact this is my first automatic.
If it was a manual transmission. I've done that one a few times and sure not the last
Thank you very much everyone. I will post findings and pictures.

hockeydad4-22 wrote:
Done this once or twice, eh?

I might have been in the general vicinity of a transfer case just last night.

akaFrankCastle wrote:

hockeydad4-22 wrote:
Done this once or twice, eh?

I might have been in the general vicinity of a transfer case just last night.

Wow very Nice
I'm not to excited about it so much. But has to be going before the safari

Does Mike know you stole His engine and trans?

ZOSO wrote:Does Mike know you stole His engine and trans?

Shh. I'm trying to finish the paper mache replacements now. He'll never know the difference.

So I pulled the inspection plate off and I found two things.
I noticed that the oil was real thick like honey.
I also noticed that there were metal pieces on the cover.
The pen wasn't in there I promise

Gear oil is thick, usually 90 weight. Did you spin the gears & get a look at all the teeth? Hard to tell by the image, but that may be part of a gear tooth.

So I turned it where I could get the gears to rotate fully and no teeth are broken off.
Now when I tuning the gears shift only 3 but they shift maybe a 1/4 inch here are some pics I'll try to get better ones tomorrow

Look at the cluster gear in the middle. It looks like it's too far forward. I see a gap at the rear between the gear and the thrust washer and it doesn't look like it's aligned with the other gears. My guess is the front thrust washer dropped out of place when it was rebuilt and what you see are chunks of it.

Well I was wondering do I have to disconnect the shift levers?

Yep. That a t shift or j shift?

ZOSO wrote:Yep. That a t shift or j shift?

It is a T shift

Should be a single cotter pin holding the rod to the spanner bar between the two shift rails.

You can just remove that cluster gear and see if the front of the case is eaten up bad. If not put some new roller bearings (48) and new thrust washers and you'll be back in business. Take a good look at the shaft too. They usually wear some and your's ran unusally.

Was thinking of taking it to a shop. I don't have all the tools needed or I would

The only special tool is a in/lb torque wrench, beam or dial type, not click.

Really that's all was thinking I needed more special equipment than that.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Should be a single cotter pin holding the rod to the spanner bar between the two shift rails.

What's the best way to get cotter pin out from the top
or after the transfer case is dropped down?

Just snatch the loop with some needle nose and give it a few good yanks.