The other alternative is a nice piece of Alum sheet with a brake down in front and back? Maybe some dynomat on the inside to keep noise and heat radiation at bay?

My cage has a similar design up front. I had flat bars in there and one time it rained and puddled over the driver and passenger seats, slowly dripping all night. I cut those out and replaced with two bent tubes. It doesn't take much to keep rain draining off, but the hard top gets pretty high there so you have some room.

Looks good! I've been trying to figure out the best way to add reinforcement to mine. It's a compromise between extra strength and head clearance since I'm tall. I suspect closed head injuries from wrecks on the street are a bigger contributor to 4x4 injuries than stuff from rollovers. It'll probably end up looking something like yours, but with triangulation in the rear part of the cage since I'll sometimes have my kids back there.

I like those additions. While not as strong as full triangulation, it looks like a good compromise between strength and livability. The only other thing I'll probably do on mine is add a bar running from the lower back corner to the top of the b-pillar hoop, possibly intersecting a horizontal bar over the wheelwell like yours.

The new cage and tire carrier are basically complete, painted and ready to go back on.

Sorry for the lack of documentation. I really took my time with this cage, better pipe fitting, much more square/level/symmetrical (tough in a Bronco that's not square/level/symmetrical). I made this cage a little taller than the first. I improved the front feet to stretch back over the body brace, the old feet were much smaller. Long term plan is to tie it to my frame or possibly the future rock sliders. I added the extra gussets from the floor braces to the b & c pillars. The seat belt bungs are .120 DOM through the tubing. It bolts to the bed sides to help support them and keep the square. I also added tabs to tie it to the windshield for support when the top is off. I did not add any pitch to the overhead bars, my old bikini has seen better days and will probably be replaced. I'll add something when that time comes. It's painted with Tractor Supply flat black, so "color matching" future work won't be hard.

I built the entire thing inside the truck with the roof on. Every bar and gusset was at least tack welded in place when the cage was pulled. Once tacked together and out of the truck I used some lumber to brace the front legs to the B-pillar legs. I wanted to prevent any chance it would warp during welding. I took the finish welding very slowly and worked around to make sure everything stayed cool. I don't think anything moved this time.

Some random shots through the build:

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I ended up ordering a Hi-Lift mount kit that will bolt in where I had the jack temp'ed in for the pics.

In primer
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Of course, when I finally got around to paint, it was too windy. So I walled off one bay of the shop with basic 9x12 plastic painters drop cloth and sprayed in my shop.

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The old tire carrier didn't fit the new 37s. I scavenged some of my old carrier (gas can basket & spare tire mount plate. I added a Ruffstuff spare tire spindle to my bumper.

I used Digger's basic tire carrier upright as inspiration, and in true Gunnibronco style cobbled mine together from 1.25" black pipe (left over from the shop build) for the base tube and 45* strut, 180* upright of 1.75" CREW (1st test bend learning with the bender), a 5" scrap piece of 1.75" DOM, some 1/4"x4" flat, and 3/16"x2" flat. It has a Ruffstuff tire carrier latch, and EMS bump stop, and a pull pin to lock it open at about 90* and 180*. IMO the Ruffstuff latch should have a safety catch to prevent it from accidentally opening.

It's not fancy but I think it will hold. More pics once it's installed.

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Finally, some small steps forward.

Used one of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-2603

And adjusted my fuel filler neck to clear the 37's. The flexible filler hose was just to close to the tire for comfort.

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Also final fender/quarter trimming and installation of flares

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I think the cage is my last big project before it's back on the road. It dawned on me that I have never registered the truck in NV. And thanks to COVID, getting plates and registration is not as easy as it should be. I have an appointment at the DMV on July 8th, just 4 days before the Rubicon trip. It was the first open appointment for in-person services available. Hopefully I'll get some test runs in where registration isn't a problem. I know there will still be some unfinished/unstarted projects (rock skis and belly pan/skid plate, parking brake and more), but they will have to wait.

To do list:
loose ends on the wiring harness
bump stops
finalize shackle length in the rear
finalize rear shock mounts
exhaust
front driveshaft
PS/Hboost lines
Pray she starts
Pray I don't let the magic smoke out of the new harness

Just a few off the top of my head. I'm sure there are more.

Howdy Gunni

I was just wondering how it was coming along, glad to see the progress.

Be careful with that magic smoke.

Looks like some great work! The design of the cage is good. Got any pics of it installed without a top? Supporting the bedsides is a great idea.

How think is the 1.75" DOM for your bumper? With a 37 hanging on it, I could see where you might need to triangulate the top tube down to the bottom tube to try and avoid twisting and bouncing.

That's good progress.

Its looking great!

I haven't been taking many pics, but I've been hard at work on the truck in preparation to run the Rubicon in July.

JD, I did take some pics as I installed the roll cage. I'll get them off my camera and upload them soon.

I found a loophole in the extended "appointment only" DMV situation. There is a small DMV run by the county in Stateline NV, up at Lake Tahoe. They had appointments the next day after my VIN was inspected. Oddly, they made me lie on my "non-op" form when I told them it hadn't run since 2014. They said they couldn't enter it that way into their system. Weird.

Lots of boring busy work making sure everything is ready to go. Too much and too boring to get into all the details.

Today I man'd up and hooked up a battery and fired it up. Everything started and ran. Other than a few minor electrical gremlins everything seems good. Hopefully the 4x4x2 box and h-boost will work after it gets bled. With no mufflers it's not a process I want to deal with yet.

Next I'm going to get an exhaust made, tires balanced, and a new front driveshaft then test drive it. I can now say it won't be in-op on the 7th anniversary of shutting it down and tearing it apart.

I am glad you kept after it. This is one reason I haven't torn into mine. With our moving scheduling every two years, I just can't afford to have it down that long.

You have beadlocks? I am sure we have broached the subject of balancing BB's in the past, but I ordered another round from evike.com a couple years ago to find that they now have a larger OD BB which seems to work great! I have them in my bronco and my trailer tires.

Setting up front bump stops.

Measured for front drive shaft, left the info with a local driveshaft shop. He's having trouble getting parts right now. So if it drags out I may drop my old front shaft off and see if he can re-tube it longer.

Going to drop tires at Discount tire to get balanced Friday.

Exhaust shop Monday.

Your making great progress !

Exhaust was in for about 24 hours, good install, sounds great. I'm pretty sure they used a Dynomax Super Tubo muffler.

Drives pretty nice, steering is off center, seemed to run out of gas with 3 or 4 gallons left in the tank. Need to add spacers to the rear bumps, wire the winch, reinstall wipers, and ?????.

Retubed front drive shaft is done, not installed.

Exhaust, t-case, trans are all out to reseal the input shaft on the trans. Hoping to be back on the road Saturday for more testing.

Test drive #2 went better.

Wire fell off Carter pump, thinking about threading the terminals to get a better connection.

Some flexi pics, need to move the rear bumpstops lower. Axle is 1" from touching with the tire up in the flare.



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More test driving and tweeking. I'm up to about 50 miles, I've hit about 55 mph and it drives as nice as it did before this all started. The 4x4x2 box steers much quicker than the old 6 turn PS box it replaced.

One complaint the green turn signal lamps I used from Ron Francis are so bright at night they wreck my night vision. I need to tone them down a bit. I guess add a resistor to the circuit? Any advice?

https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/705


Wired the winch, adjusted the clutch pedal stop to add a little more clutch travel, made a small adjustment to the toe in.

Took a mild 4x4 trail close to my house and pushed it a bit. The driver rear tire kissed the fuel filler neck. So I decided to move the axle 1" forward (back to centered on the spring perch) and add a 1" lift block. I picked up the lift blocks after I moved and the truck seemed to settle and sit level without any weight in it. So now I'm just slightly nose low, I expect with gear/parts/tools/etc it will still stay near level. I also moved the rear bump stops forward to match, and added a small landing pad to the axle to reduce the travel. I went back out and flexed it again and the bump stops are just starting to compress at nearly full stuff. Springs are a little inverted but nothing too bad. On hard front compressions (fast dirt road bumps) the front drive shaft is just kissing a 1" square tube I added to stiffen my floor, so I'll cut it back a little.

New door and tailgate weather stripping should be here tomorrow to start sealing everything up better.

I'm pretty happy with how the truck runs and drives on & off road. The articulation exceeds my expectations. I really didn't think it would perform like this.

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Can’t wait to see this in person

what springs do you have in the front....................they are so flexy

Really looks great and nice to see it out!

Yes!! So glad to see it all come together!! I hope it exceeds your expectations!!